The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a pal baked a gorgeous double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a gorgeous winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief record of the only elements coming collectively into one thing far more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means which you can add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you have it (and you need to!) make sure to have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her unique had chard. I take advantage of numerous scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up manner again in 2005 when she wrote concerning the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply numerous questions right here that may pop up. The ingredient record for this panade couldn’t be easier, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Sort of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I may also argue that loads of that is private choice. If you happen to bake sourdough at house, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will possible lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the parts. The bread selection is such an enormous deal on this recipe, every one will impression your finish outcome immensely. I discovered the onerous manner once I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one night time – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured droop. You need the bread to place up a struggle and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old home made sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve performed crustless variations earlier than. If you happen to determine you’re keen on a brilliant oozy, silky panade, go crustless. If you happen to like your panade to have extra construction, hold your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Greatest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth now we have round or within the freezer (defrost). I like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however in case you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You possibly can! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in every of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I favor barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with a minimum of a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which another fillings that I’d be capable to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private choice. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you favor. You possibly can go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems to be so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you get pleasure from as a lot as I’ve over time. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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